|
I have spent a little time exploring this climbing area in Central Ma and I think it's worth a short blog/guide write up. (Video at the bottom too)!
Bunyan Mountain Bloc Topo Monson MA. About Monson Ma is in the middle of nowhere really. It’s an old-school climbing area dated back to the 1979 that climbers from RI, CT and MA would regularly visit. (In the link above, don’t follow the directions, its dated back to 1996). The cliff line runs north and south about 1⁄4 mile and ranges from 20’ to 90’ of quality schist granite. On the south end of the cliff is the where some BP’s are, they are cliff ban boulders but at such a high quality, it doesn’t make sense you’re in central MA. Directions Either the Mass Pike or Rt. 20 are your best options – below is a link to a map I created for driving and approach directions and also a vague location of boulders. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NSdga6CXFw2yIhL8IakcX8kqfDg&usp=sharing Parking Two options – 1) Park in the pull-out on the left, before the last house at the end of Bunyan Rd or 2) Parking at the top of the hill at the Hospital off of Macomber Rd. I have only parked at the Bunyan Rd pull off. It’s about a 20m hike from here. Hiking from the Hospital, you’re on your own, but there is a trail that runs parallel along the top of the cliff. Approach From the Bunyan Rd parking spot - Once parked, walk up the past the last house on the left and cross over the big fallen tree across the dirt road. Continue up the wide trail until you come to a junction, turn slight right and walk downhill and then turn left once you see a trail opening on the left. Continue through the woods until you come to a power line opening and look for a cairn marking the opening to the final trail to the cliff line. You'll see the beginning of the cliff. There is a trail that cuts above the cliff that you could end up on, so if you start to trend up hill and left, cut right to the cliff line.
The Matriarch Wall
The south most part of the cliff line, can’t be missed. This wall holds some of the best lines I’ve seen in Central Ma. If this face (pictured below) was in any other popular climbing area, it would be 5-star. Check it out! 
A – Project that hasn’t been tried or cleaned (40’ rope should do the trick for cleaning). A vision quest if you want, but pulling the weird lip from the cliff to the detached wall and onto the face should be fun and maybe hard. B – Monson Matriarch V10 (FA Josh Larson 2017) is a line out of the Rocklands with its orange and dark grey, rounded crimps on very solid stone. Start left hand in slotted jug (right side of the arch) and climb straight up though a series of slotted crimps (dreamy) and then a final right hand punch to a slot. Once you get that slot, move lefthand to a jug then straight up to a wide crack and follow that to the ledge (top out) on the right. C – Blue OX V6 (FA by Zach Larson 2014) This line is the next line to the right of the previous. Start on lowest crack (squat start, not a sit) and climb up the deceivingly hard crimps to the top ledge. ? - The WC Slabs are about 15’ tall, rounded, smooth and almost blank. Some quartz crystals pop out here and there and I’m sure scrubbing some of the lichen off would reveal a 5-star slab! Worth checking out!
The Mega-dong Proj
The next best and hardest line here. The dong-dagger will get ya! Walk along the base of the cliff line until you stumble upon this feature. This picture is taken from the north so you won’t see the dagger dong until it's too late... 
The final move to this wild line. Left heel or a high right foot? Either way, it's going to be a rip to the finishing JUG! GO GET IT!
8 Comments
 The lovely crew I had the pleasure of climbing, laughing, drinking and eating with during my stay. The experience I had in Serbia was incredible, humbling and filled with kindness and love. I think the word inspired would complete my thoughts while I was in Serbia. Inspired by the history of the Balkan culture and what each country has experienced over the years. Maybe inspiration doesn't fit here, but I think gluttony might - gluttony by the meat and pastries that I devoured each day and night with no regret (okay, maybe once). But the real inspiration came by a force, driving me to learn more about the people and community and their needs as climbers. There are not many climbers in Serbia and the lack of climbing gyms had me thinking about the potential the country has for more sport climbing, bigger and better climbing gyms, competitions, youth and adult climbing teams and coaches. (Belgrade only has 4 small boulder only gyms and one (very old) short, outdoor lead/tr wall.). The community is there, the kids and adults are psyched and the rock is fresh, so, what's next? What needs to happen to ignite this spark into a ball of fire (besides a bottle Rakjia)?  Niš, Serbia | Limestone Gorge  I went to Serbia directly after spending 10 days in Shanghai, China coaching the US University Team and exploring the city. Back in April, I was asked by Dusan Brankovic with Outdoor Collective (a Serbian outdoor non-profit community) to partake in their annual Reel Rock Tour and teach climbing workshops, give a lecture about my climbing life and training, and climb with the community of kind, generous (and crazy) locals. I arrived in Serbia and Djuk Brankovic from Outdoor Collective picked me up from the airport and then what felt like 1hr, was 10 days and I found myself back at the same gate I arrived at.  The travel from China to Serbia The event in Belgrade A view of D-town Belgrade  The Hall in D-town Belgrade where the Reel Rock Film Tour kicked off! The Reel Rock Serbian Tour kicked off in downtown Belgrade at a busy intersection with life and motion everywhere I looked. I stepped inside the auditorium and was excited to see it filled with climbers and people interested in getting to know climbing a bit more. Before the film started there was slacklining and climbing sessions to get people hanging out and meeting new friends. 30min before the Reel Rock film started a line formed outside the building to the ticket office and into the auditorium. The place we getting sold out! Hundreds of people funneled into their seats and waited for the start. Dusan told me that when they show mountain biking films or skiing films, they never fill the place up, but whenever Reel Rock is in town, the people come! Cool to think about a sport that isn't as know as cycling and skiing get more attention, maybe it's the quality of the films or maybe it's the pure joy of not exactly knowing what they might see. The show kicked off with a short introduction from Dusan and myself, but after the show, people didn't leave. They stuck around for the dyno competition that we had set up prior to the event. The climbers stretched and lined up, excited and ready to jump around on the wall, I was so impressed and happy seeing all these climbers excited about a little dyno comp in a basement of an auditorium in downtown Belgrade, Serbia.  Outdoor Collective crew and helpers setting up the wall and routes for the climbing wall demo WORKSHOPS Giving my first talk about training to the core group of climbers in Belgrade at a local outdoor wall. I had 3 workshops to hold, basically, the topics were; training and coaching. The climbers wanted to structure their training to be more efficient in their climbing. There are a few coaches in Serbia, there are strong locals who have climbed 8c and some guys that coach small youth teams. There is of course, the Serbian climbing star Staša Gejo who competes internationally and is coached by her father. But, she even trains in Slovenia due to the lack of gyms and training areas around her home in Niš. I talked to the climbers about how to structure their season to preform better over a certain period of time - Periodization training. It's simple and has great results if you stick to it. Each time I started to talk about the planning and work outs, people would start taking notes and asking questions, they want it and I wanted to give more. After 2 nights worth of workshops, I began to realize that I could only give them so much in the little time that I was there. The thought of explaining all the exercise and subtle do's and don'ts on training and movement worried me. I could only sprinkle the ideas and exercise to them like planting seeds, it was up to them to water them and see the results. But, I wasn't okay with that, I wanted to give them more, help them more, not just this once but consistently over a longer period of time. "Should I come back to Serbia and coach"? I remember asking myself that after 2 workshops, but I figured it was too soon to start that thought process, I needed more time. But it wasn't until a work shop I gave in Novi Sad ( an hour north of Belgrade) that made me really start thinking about a return coaching plan...
The workshop in Novi Sad was mostly adults and 3 or 4 kids, after my talk, the adults and I ran through some general fundamentals and climbing skills and then a power workout. The kids were tip-toeing around, wanting the same workout, wanting attention. I was excited and worked with the kids for the next 1hr, doing pull-ups, lock-offs, coordinations bumps. But the real fun started when we worked on a boulder problem I had previously set earlier in the day, just for the kids.  Teaching the basics to the crew  The Kids boulder problem that they unlocked and all sent! As I worked with the kids on movement and positioning hips the right way at just the right time, I realized I had missed coaching a lot. It's been a little more than a year since I stopped coaching full time at Metro Rock in Boston and I didn't think I was going to miss is it so quickly. The kids I coached at Metro Rock were (and still are) amazing kids. All motivated and wanting to learn, giving all their effort during practice and competition. These Serbian kids were slowly learning the process and feel of body vs gravity while continue to position their hips, but finally, they nailed it. Once one kid stuck the move, they all knew it was possible, their eyes lit up with hope and competitiveness. They all stuck the move! The lesson was good for me too, I had to talk slow in English and use simple words to explain climbing. The kids spoke good English (much better than my Serbian) but I had to focus on my words and ideas, a great challenge and practice for any coach. We traveled to the city of Niš a few days later for a workshop, lecture, reel rock showing and 3 days of climbing outside! I kept hearing the climbing here was the best in the country and I was excited to see, touch and climb as much as I could. A two hour drive from Belgrade and we arrived in Niš, settled into our little climber hostel that the climbers visit each time they climb. Out next mission, was to head into the city of Niš to prepare for a meeting with the Vice Deans of the University...  The meeting with the Vice Dean of School and Professors about Climbing in America and the potential for an International Serbian Team. At the University of Niš, Djuk and I met with some professors and Vice Dean of School (above) about my lecture I was giving to the school. We talked abut how the U.S. funds and supports their National climbing teams and our selection process for those teams. The lecture went great later on that evening, a good amount of climbers showed up but the students that were supposed to attend had another lecture to go to. So, it was a little crowd but fun and interesting to say the least. Then, we enjoyed some food with a bunch of climbers and headed back to our climber hostels and prepared for 3 days on the cliffs! The Climbing......the actual climbing Dani working a rad and power endurance test piece (8c) in a local crag close to Belgrade  Repeating the classic H2o line in the night with 20 Serbians and fireworks all around. Best night climb to date! The climbing was interesting each day we went out, the locals took me to different sectors each day, giving me a small, but proper tour through the canyons. The first day we started along the road in the H2o Cave, a med sized limestone cave, colored black with about 15 lines spread across. I climbed with local strong boys Dabi and Igor, two guys psyched about climbing, training and sending hard outside. They were some cool guys for sure and we climbed together for the rest of the day. I flashed a classic line there called “H2o” an overhanging 7c+ with 2 boulder problems midway up. Then with some beta from Dabi, Igor and I climbed a bouldery 8a that had a cool under-cling bump section and run-out top. I was itching to check out an near by gorge that sounded like it had much more potential for more climbs. It was off to bed after the same delicious meal and nightly Rakija circle wit the crew.  The H2o Cave roadside and steep! The next morning we hit the canyon that I've heard about so much with Vuk, Jelena, Dabi and Igor. I couldn’t believe the cliffs and potential they continually pointed out to me as we drove along the winding road to our pull out. A short hike uphill and we were at a nice cliff with 20 bolted lines, all less than 30m. After a quick warm up and chasing the sun that vanished quicker than our cold fingers wished, Igor and I hit the line that jumped out at us. A beautiful wave like arete with a very technical, slabby start and ending. It followed the arete with the meat of the route (I say meat because it's all I’ ate in Serbia!) midway up. Igor hit it first figuring out some beta and sadly, after the crux section, pulled a rather large jug off the wall, making the sequence a bit harder and less secure. It stood as 8a+ before the break and possibly the same grade now, but a solid 8a+ at that. LESSON: After I gave it a solid flash go with slipping out of a jug at the end of the crux, I gave it a second go but completely forgot my foot beta and fell lower than my flash go. Not completely weird when it comes to climbing, it happens often and it's okay, but preventable. I memorized the foot sequences and made the crux flow two times and lowered. I often wonder if you could ever practice a sequence too much, I thought I had it figured out because I didn't fall during my flash go, but instincts can take over so subconsciously that I didn't have to really focus and think about the beta, just climb. Igor came close to the line but the crux was low-percentage and hard! Next time Igor! You got it mang!  The classic 8a+ / 13c what a perfect line in the endless limestone gorge near Niš The 3rd and final day of climbing we went back to the original canyon and this time the Niš local route equipper and professor Daniel Stanković toured me around to some hidden hard lines that were amazing and unique. I was pretty stoked to check out this one feature I saw during our first drive through the canon, something I dubbed the Fin (I forget the actual name). It was a 35meter tall fin like feature with 5 stunning lines climbing to the top of the feature. We hiked over and noticed the amount of grass growing out of the holds, "it hasn’t been climbed in a little while". I racked up with the draws and sky hook to clean out my holds, started up “Zilet” (Gillet) 7C. I figured I would take and clean holds but at the same time, I wanted to give it a good on-sight / cleaning go. I would stop and rip chunks of grass and branches out of the crimps I would then chalk up and grip. It was a fantastic route with a tricky ending sequence that I really enjoyed. It's clean again now!  Climbing Phobia 7c+ / 13a on the "Fin" A local Niš climber joined us to hang out and watch as I started to climb on the next route, a 7c+/13a with a tricky beginning and hard sequence 3/4 of the way up, that I could not figure out on my on-sight go and fell, but quickly figured it out and lowered to rest. Ana (finally) came over to climb the beautiful 6b+ line that was dirtier than the one I just climbed. Luckily, she's a bad ass and took out the bushes, dirt and possibly spiders and snakes as she climbed the line. It was close to the end of the day so I went for the send go of the beautiful “phobia” (7c+) line I had just tried. I felt comfortable and happy through the crux and I was at the chains with some cheering from the crew on the other side of the canyon. I topped out the fin and stood on top with a huge "high" off of the climb and experience. I took it in, a lot of it. All of it. I had to smack myself a little and remind myself where I was, what I just did and why I was in Serbia. I thought back to where I was ten years ago and what I was doing, I was wiring a fan, a light or gluing pipes together in a trench in Boston. I sat down and thanked God and the opportunities I've had and not take a single day for granted. Climbing changed my life, changed how I look at life. Thanks, Serbia, thank you to my new friends in this wonderful country. To end the trip, Djuk and I talked on the drive home that night about a return trip, for a longer period of time. To return and coach a small program, help train the psyched climbers and kids and bolt some lines in the nearby, beautiful limestone cliffs. So, I’ve already added Serbia in my 2017 calendar, watch out for some more Serbian crushers in the near future! Peace and Love! J  Group shot ending the climbing trip to Serbia. I was nearing my oxygen limit that I was ironically complaining about a few days before while snorkeling in the colorful reef of the Caribbean Ocean. My only option was to resurface and deal with what was waiting for me, I went up ready to take as much air and pain as possible. “Maybe they are gone, dead or tired of chasing me. Better yet, maybe I’ll just wake up from this nightmare and go get some breakfast and a cup of shitty Maxwell house”. I could only hear the sound of buzzing as I surfaced, the pain was instant as I was stung over and over again on my head, face, neck and shoulders. I pushed my hair back out of my eyes and combed out a dozen of bees, some still buzzing and some already dead after leaving their stinger in my dome. I swam further away, trying to think of a way out, “When will this end?!” I collected the air I needed to repeat this process for what I thought was going to be over any minuet, but lasted for twenty...  The beautiful river and jungle landscape that we hiked into.
|
 A few cuts, swollen legs/body and 100+ stings. Some still in my head over the next few days. |  Now, one of my greatest fears - Bees and using an EpiPen...  Bee Guts |
With a limp from my thy being struck by the stump, cuts and scrapes and the 100+ bee stings I had, I was moving and climbing by the end of the day. Somehow I mustered up the courage and energy to climb at Barton Creek, a small local climbing area. Yes, I looked in every hole for bees and every sound started with a Buzz that day. Five days later, back in Jackson Hole, WY, I went to Urgent Care because I was feeling - off, odd, weird. I found out that I was having a delayed reaction to the stings and my anxiety and blood pressure was through the roof (152/90 to be exact). The Dr. prescribed me some meds and an epipen, she said that I could have an allergic reaction to any sort of bee or wasp and that should travel with an epipen now. One sting could put me in the hospital at this point. I’m sad I have to deal with an epipen for maybe the rest of my life, but at least I have the rest of my life. I haven’t lived a moment like this in my life before, it could have been much worse and it could have been way better. It was truly unbeelizeable.
Lastly, but most importantly - Follow this link about bees and what to do if you find yourself surrounded by a swarm of these unforgiving, protective, bees. Certain things I did could have made the event less stressful and/or safer, read up at - http://www.wikihow.com/Escape-from-Killer-Bees . Bee safe out there yall!
~ Josh
Lastly, but most importantly - Follow this link about bees and what to do if you find yourself surrounded by a swarm of these unforgiving, protective, bees. Certain things I did could have made the event less stressful and/or safer, read up at - http://www.wikihow.com/Escape-from-Killer-Bees . Bee safe out there yall!
~ Josh
What kind of excuses could one use? What about my ability level, age, focus, skin, nutrition, my training plan? It's simple. I wasn't strongest enough. But why and was that all? Great Questions.
But...
Why do the strongest sometimes loose?
If you fail you're not the strongest?
Of course it's more than being strong to win a climbing competition or be the best? Maybe in arm-wrestleling or weight-lifting you use mostly strength, very little technique and not so much strategy. Tactical challenges aren't always defeated with strength or power. In so many sports and extreme hobbies there is mostly experience, techniques, flexibility, subtleties and unnoticeable body movements matched with the right muscles, strength and power. Is it more and more training of strength that we need? More hours in the gym on the plastic? Less?!
But...
Why do the strongest sometimes loose?
If you fail you're not the strongest?
Of course it's more than being strong to win a climbing competition or be the best? Maybe in arm-wrestleling or weight-lifting you use mostly strength, very little technique and not so much strategy. Tactical challenges aren't always defeated with strength or power. In so many sports and extreme hobbies there is mostly experience, techniques, flexibility, subtleties and unnoticeable body movements matched with the right muscles, strength and power. Is it more and more training of strength that we need? More hours in the gym on the plastic? Less?!
It's a number of things. Mental strength, social pressure/strength, training plans, setting aside time for training, nutrition, sleep, health/sicknesses, improving technique. Combining all of that can be tricky to lead up to one day of competition and making it all come together smooth and without second thoughts. Who ever can do this, is the best and should be crowned the best - for that day.
Those are my thoughts, right or wrong they are my feelings about climbing competition.
Those are my thoughts, right or wrong they are my feelings about climbing competition.
Thinking back to last year, yea, I climbed better. Was I stronger too? I feel that I was. But maybe the boulders were harder this year? Could be. Maybe the other competitors improved their game more than I did? It's interesting to think about these things, they are no means excuses or negative thoughts, they are just competition realities that are worth thinking about.
Qualifiers
5 Boulders 4min on/4min off. That's 20 min of reading the boulders, focusing on your sequence, chalking up/brushing, breathing, engaging all 'try-hard' mechanics, stepping off the mats and rock climbing to the top.
I topped only 2 boulders in this round - Blocs 1 & 4. I came close on the 5th and 2 and 3 pushed me around. Squeezing into semis in 18th place, I wasn't pleased but I had a chance to make up for it. Semi-finals started the next day and 21 men could be the top 6 for finals (and the U.S. Team selection), this is where the fighting gets tougher.
I topped only 2 boulders in this round - Blocs 1 & 4. I came close on the 5th and 2 and 3 pushed me around. Squeezing into semis in 18th place, I wasn't pleased but I had a chance to make up for it. Semi-finals started the next day and 21 men could be the top 6 for finals (and the U.S. Team selection), this is where the fighting gets tougher.
Semi-finals
Warming up in iso was quiet compared to the 90 men that was in there the previous day. I warmed up with some friends for an hour or so. But as I walked to the chair, I thought to myself "I think I should have warmed up longer, I don't feel right". As I approached the first bloc and the time ticked down for my turn, I forgot about my lack of a good warm up and the placement I was coming in from the previous day. No room for negative thoughts, just positive and focused. "Climbers start Climbing" rang through the venue and the round began for me. --> (Fast forward) -- > By the time I reached the 4th and final boulder in the round, I still had zero tops. Sitting down, pissed off from not even doing the first move on the 3rd boulder that I thought was "my style" I was defeated. I knew finals were out and that I wasn't on my game again in this round. But, at that time, I had no idea how many tops you would need for finals, but one top is a long shot to make the cut. I got back in the zone, forgot about the failing and started problem 4. I managed to make some hight on this one, it was a really hard problem with an iron-cross on two deep pockets in a roof. I misread the sequence trying to reach the head wall and was gassed... "Climbers stop climbing"... Walking off the pads I grabbed my things, sat down where no one was around and counted to 10.... "woosaa".
Bloc 4 in semi-finals. This was not the right sequence but it's the only way I could gain some points. Fun bloc!
16th place this year, that's a big jump down the street from my 4th place last year. But within a few hours, I was completely over the fact that I kind of sucked this year. I was thinking about the rest of the year, trips, other comps, family, friends and my lovely girl friend Charlotte. The next week, I would be heading to "Hueco Tanks" to rock climb. So many things to move on to and get ready for. But first, one week of working for USAC and watch my ol' kiddos from "Team Metro Rock" jam up the wall during Youth Bouldering Nationals.
That's it for now, thanks for reading through.
Josh
That's it for now, thanks for reading through.
Josh
The nice low percentage jump move for semi #1
My beautiful lady adding colors and power to the cliff.
It’s time to switch up the gears, granite to limestone to plastic. I know, it’s a tough choice but like E-40 said “We all got choices; Hungry? - Nope. Dinner? - Yup”. I’m okay with this choice for part of the year. I just returned back from 7 weeks in Puerto Rico soaking up the sun, jungle vibes and new blocs everywhere I looked. Spending great times with friends and family that joined and becoming closer with the local crew of climbers on the island.
I hit Boston for a 3 days after PR, said hi to Mom and Dad, chill with the crazy relatives that I love and miss and spend time in the house I grew up in. Good memories with every hall that I walk and room I sit in, being back where it all started makes you miss your youth, kind of. I hung with my mom, cooking, shopping, drinking sangrias and chatting. My father and I went deer hunting, I took photos of him being a man and then we hit the classic post-hunting diner for endless bacon and bacon and bacon.
Everett drawing back in the morning light. To get a better vantage point, he climbs 15' up into a tree-stand and does it faster than me!
My brother and I climbed together at the local gym in Worcester. I remember sitting down watching him climb and thinking that I am so lucky to have climbing in my life and a brother to share it with. I really couldn't think of anything else at the time as I watched and cheered on my bro as he swung on some Larson pinches in the 45 deg cave.
Before I visit Charlotte in France, I had to see some of my kiddos that I trained and work with from Metrorock. These kids (young adults) are part of who I've become, their inspiration, dedication and support in climbing is something that motivates me to be a better climber. I will always be a coach, I love it to much to stop for good, I love the kids. I took a few of the kiddos out to Farley, MA. bouldering Saturday morning before my 4pm flight out of Logan. It was a quick half day in the woods but the sun was out, the kids were psyched and I was super happy to be with them. My brother came as well and we met up with a huge mentor and good friend/brother Josh Surrett and his daughter Jade. We all climbed on some blocs and before I knew it, I watching the "Will Ferrell" movie "Get Hard" on my red-eye fight to France.
Before I visit Charlotte in France, I had to see some of my kiddos that I trained and work with from Metrorock. These kids (young adults) are part of who I've become, their inspiration, dedication and support in climbing is something that motivates me to be a better climber. I will always be a coach, I love it to much to stop for good, I love the kids. I took a few of the kiddos out to Farley, MA. bouldering Saturday morning before my 4pm flight out of Logan. It was a quick half day in the woods but the sun was out, the kids were psyched and I was super happy to be with them. My brother came as well and we met up with a huge mentor and good friend/brother Josh Surrett and his daughter Jade. We all climbed on some blocs and before I knew it, I watching the "Will Ferrell" movie "Get Hard" on my red-eye fight to France.
Josh and Josh twinning. We did not plan this scary match.
 Wine tasting (and buying) with Alex in a small village close the the cliffs. France is a place that I am getting used to, I love it honestly. The language is the hardest on me but once I get over that (and learn it) I’ll be fully addicted and maybe even part French by then. (Charlotte, just read right over that). I had a few weeks to spend with Charlotte and our plans were pretty simple; train, climb outside, eat and see more of Montpellier. |  A gift from my mom to Charlotte. Dragonfly cooking apron, thanks mom. |
While I was in France, I started a new training program from the coolest cat in the northwest “Tyson Schone” who is the Head coach of the killer youth team “Vertical World” out of Seattle, WA. Tyson and I have gotten to know each other over the years of Iso lock-ups and traveling to Mexico and Italy to help coach the U.S. Youth Climbing team at World competitions. Tyson wrote me a plan that I was not used to at all, this plan involved 5-6 days a week of intense, at my limit work outs. Added weights, 4x4s, core, finger strength, heavy dead hands, etc. I shouldn't give it all away but all of it mixed into 6 days, was a big change for me. Usually, I focuse on specific muscle groups or styles of training per week, this one, combines it all. I really enjoy it, I feel worked. Another part that's been pushed me the most is that it’s not MY plan, meaning, in the past when I do my work outs and follow my plans, sometimes I wouldn't do everything on the plan. Sometimes I would just say “well, I wrote this so I can tweak it a little here and there”. With a plan from someone else (who I admire and respect) adds the feeling of a coach and accountability check it. I must do everything, I can't cut corners and I have to believe this is the best plan for me and my goals.
Entering the final crux of "Nadesdja" 9a. Projecting.
Alex and I being serious about sport climbing. The first week in France I started my Week: 1 of 3 for this cycle of training. 6 days a week of plastic but I had to get out on that perfect Limestone - so I would climb during the day and train at night. Alex Bee (a Cali-boi who moved to France and eats xbox every night for breakfast) lives very close to where Charlotte and I live. We are both also close an outdoor sport climbing area called “Le Joncas" and it's an area we hit up mostly due to it’s short drive, short hike and (YES) short routes. I needed to focus on boulder training at this time, so power endurance routes mixed with small holds and powerful sequences was a good fit. Our first day out Alex and I climbed a few lines next to a line I had my eyes set on “Nadesdja” 9a/14d. This route is in your face until the chains, in fact, I wasn't sure if there was even resting or chalking holds when I first started working the route that day. A very hard boulder problem down low (V9/10) into a sustained 14a to the chains. That’s my guess as the moment, eventually by the last few days in France I was falling after the boulder problem, then climbing to the anchors. A solid one hang at this grade and this style for me is satisfying after 3 or 4 days of working it. During our 4 days out in Joncas out tick-list combined was:
“Unknown name” - 8a/13b (Alex, Steve & I)
“Break free” - 7c+/13a (Steve, Charlotte & I)
“Les sot de Titian” 8a+/13c (Alex, Steve & I)
“Les sot de Nadesdja” 8b+/14a (Joshy)
The link-up is from the 8a+ into the top of the 9a and it felt like the right thing to try to build some power endurance and muscle memory. I knew the beginning of the 8a+ good and the end of the 9a I had dialed from previous days of work. One day I decided to try the link-up and I sent it, first try, but completing the ending move was hard and that wasn't a good sign for the 9a. I still hadn't one hung the 9a yet but, right after my linkup send, I one hung the 9a! Really happy with that! I started to work some of the harder moves to smooth them out for the send attempts.
“Unknown name” - 8a/13b (Alex, Steve & I)
“Break free” - 7c+/13a (Steve, Charlotte & I)
“Les sot de Titian” 8a+/13c (Alex, Steve & I)
“Les sot de Nadesdja” 8b+/14a (Joshy)
The link-up is from the 8a+ into the top of the 9a and it felt like the right thing to try to build some power endurance and muscle memory. I knew the beginning of the 8a+ good and the end of the 9a I had dialed from previous days of work. One day I decided to try the link-up and I sent it, first try, but completing the ending move was hard and that wasn't a good sign for the 9a. I still hadn't one hung the 9a yet but, right after my linkup send, I one hung the 9a! Really happy with that! I started to work some of the harder moves to smooth them out for the send attempts.
The 9a isn't my style at all, other than it's short and dynamic. The holds are very small (especially in this section) and there are very bad resting spots. I really enjoy this route, the moves and the idea of sport climbing!
Video below is the opening dyno on "Nadesdja". It's a beautiful jump move from a right hand crimp/pinch to a flat edge. Nice route setting nature.
 Training at the huge bouldering gym in Tulouse. The footprint/square footage makes it the biggest bouldering gym in France. | Charlotte and I jumped a train and went to Lyon for a few days of training, visiting the Volx Holds factory and some business meetings with “The Climbing Family”. We trained in a great gym in Lyon with Thomas (Chas brother) for 6 hours on-sighting new blocs, strength training and weight training. I have to say, my slab game is down, way down compared to last seasons comps and training. But it’s something that will come back quickly i know it. Tulouse was our next visit for training, a 3 hour drive and 2 gyms this time, one was more on-sighting and training with heavy hangs and the following day was volume and a bit of bloc setting. |
Slo-mo video of a blind jump at the gym in Tulouse! Cool move brah.
I had the opportunity to set with some guys who set for the FFME for youth and adult competitions and trainings. I set a few blocs and then foreran with them. After, I hit weight lifting, projecting hard awkward boulders and 4x4s with a weight vest.
One more week of training left for this cycle then Tyson hands over the last few weeks of plans before leading up to the American Bouldering Nationals in the end of January. We’ll see what happens this year, you never know, you just prepare as best as possible and tell yourself when it's time - “today is your day”.
One more week of training left for this cycle then Tyson hands over the last few weeks of plans before leading up to the American Bouldering Nationals in the end of January. We’ll see what happens this year, you never know, you just prepare as best as possible and tell yourself when it's time - “today is your day”.
The trip went by fast and I am on my flight back to Boston for Christmas already. I’m excited to land, climb jet lagged with my bro and head home to maw and paw. Christmas eve is TOMORROW!? I suppose I should write a shopping list now...
Selfie Sunday of my girl and I
Not in Yabucoa but it needs to be mentioned. North of the island where all the DWS actions is. Photo by Dan Krauss.
Dan Krauss had an amazing idea for a night time photo session. Guaraguao | V8. Photo by Dan Krauss
Overview
Where do I begin to even start explaining this 7 week trip to Puerto Rico? I could start with the obvious, yes, it's warm. But I wont because that didn't stop us from having an amazing time and sending lines. I guess I could start with the Deep Water Soloing on wild shaped limestone cliffs over the ocean. Maybe I should start talking about the 50'-70' granite towers that protrude out of the jungle that await bolts and machetes? Oh, okay, how about the amazing established limestone sport climbing caves all over the island and many more to be bolted and developed....but I shouldn't start there either. Alright, I think I should start with my favorite area on the near perfect granite blocs around Yabucoa. If you've followed along on my Instagram or Facebook or "Climbing Puerto Rico's" social media pages, you'll recognize the name "Yabucoa". In my opinion, it will be a new destination for bouldering for people all around the world looking for some adventure, paradise and climbing. Let's focus on this area for the blog, I want you to know everything about this paradise. Here is some quick beta for travel, lodging, time of year, before I geek out on areas and problems.
Location
Lisa Chulich and I walking around "Old San Juan". An amazing place to eat, drink and walk it off to repeat. Photo by Dan Krauss
Puerto Rico is rather small with just 3,515 sq miles and a population around 3.5 million - Is that 857 people per square mile? The capital is San Juan and it has a Spanish european touch to its "old san juan" section of town. A big beautiful historic fort, cobblestone streets filled with shops, bars, restaurants and cafes. A pizza place we went to (a lot) is called "Pirilo Pizza Rustica" and it also close to a top rated cocktail bar "La Factoría". Walk along the lagoon and go check out the "mini Miami" and hit some black jack tables and pool bars. No need for currency exchange, it's USD ya'll!
Getting to the island
There are a few airports, people often ask me what one they should fly into - you want to fly to San Juan's major airport, airport code is SJU. Jet blue and American Airlines are most common and best deals. When you land, if you have Verizon or AT&T you can just turn you phone right on, no extra charges for data or text/call because it's NOT International. Everything goes in PR!
Transportation
Friendly local moped professional giving us some love! Photo by Dan Krauss
You will need to rent a car if you plan on going to Yabucoa (right at the airport). If you can, rent something that will go up insanely steep (but paved) roads. A 4x4 isn't needed but something with power. If you want to stay around for a longer time, then buying a car will be easy due to the fact that there is on avg. 5 cars per house hold. Not an accurate estimate but you wont have a problem finding a beater to beat. The drive from SJU airport to Yabucoa is 1 hour and you will have to pay tolls.
Directions to the main parking of the Yabucoa area can be found HERE!
Oh, and there are no driving rules, expect everyone to cut you off, slam on the breaks with no break lights and pass you in the break down lane.
Directions to the main parking of the Yabucoa area can be found HERE!
Oh, and there are no driving rules, expect everyone to cut you off, slam on the breaks with no break lights and pass you in the break down lane.
The pads and truck "airing out" from a few weeks stink and stinky. Photo by Dan Krauss
Lodging
You have a few options to stay in Yabucoa - 1) The best option is to stay in a house that I rented during my recent trip. It's in Yabucoa, 5 min drive to the biggest density of blocs, 10 min to supermarket and cafes and resides in a gated community. If you want more info on this house, contact me directly as I dont want to give the contact info publicly.
HOME - Front porch lounging. Some days we would return from the jungle for lunch, swim and a quick power nap. Photo by Dan Krauss
Option 2) for lodging is a local motel/hotel set up. It's also in Yabucoa, I know NOTHING about this place, I just know it exists...kind of. Good luck!
Other important things to know
Bugs and plants
The best part about Puerto Rico, nothing on the island is deadly; like no deadly bugs, plants or monkey that would maul your face open. There are a few things to know that will help you stay comfortable and 'less' itchy. 1) The mosquitoes can be bothersome, depends on your tolerance for these little pests, bug spray in a way - worked? 2) There are plants (i don't have a picture, sorry) that are like nettle that we have here in the states but I think is the devil. It's causes about 10-20 minuets of itching, not bad compared to the 3) Piss ants (real name; small ass ants you can't see and they pee on you). Sounds just gross but it actually is the worst itching pain I've been in. You need to be careful when shaking trees, grabbing branches but the good thing is, they are only really bad in the "Peidra Blanca" area.
Clothing
You can get away with a shorts, closed toe sneakers and no shirt for weeks on end here. Not that it's recommend but it's my go-to outfit (or lack of). Thin pants and long sleeve are really helpful to have from the bugs and plants and sun if you really need. Most people use them the first day and they go to shorts because of the heat.
Bring:
The best part about Puerto Rico, nothing on the island is deadly; like no deadly bugs, plants or monkey that would maul your face open. There are a few things to know that will help you stay comfortable and 'less' itchy. 1) The mosquitoes can be bothersome, depends on your tolerance for these little pests, bug spray in a way - worked? 2) There are plants (i don't have a picture, sorry) that are like nettle that we have here in the states but I think is the devil. It's causes about 10-20 minuets of itching, not bad compared to the 3) Piss ants (real name; small ass ants you can't see and they pee on you). Sounds just gross but it actually is the worst itching pain I've been in. You need to be careful when shaking trees, grabbing branches but the good thing is, they are only really bad in the "Peidra Blanca" area.
Clothing
You can get away with a shorts, closed toe sneakers and no shirt for weeks on end here. Not that it's recommend but it's my go-to outfit (or lack of). Thin pants and long sleeve are really helpful to have from the bugs and plants and sun if you really need. Most people use them the first day and they go to shorts because of the heat.
Bring:
- Plenty of chalk, you can't really find it on the island.
- 2 or more pads
- Wire cleaning brushes if you want to clean (recommended because so much is available for development)
- Short rope and harness - to clean
- Machetes are a must because the trails and around the blocs get overgrown quickly. (Info on buying local machetes for less that $10 below).
Interested in Developing? Here are some jungle tips:
If you do (and I mean, when you do because you will) establish a line, let us know about it! Take a photo, grade and name it and we will add it to our log books, blogs and list of boulders in Yabucoa! I know it can be hard to tell us exactly where it is. Email me and i'll be sure to share it with the local boys at ClimbingPR!
Machetes - Tools of the trade
So if you haven't used one, now is your time to learn and not chop off your foot or your friends arms. Go to the local "Hectors hard wear" store in Yabucoa and buy yourself a machete. Ask for Hector and tell him you are a climber, he will be psyched to know that climbers can bring him money . (Hector will try to sell you everything in his store, also, if its in season, buy the local honey, Hector sells that too!). You will need a machete for the trails mostly as they grow in VERY quickly and if you want to develop something, you will want a saw to trim thicker bushes. Short rope and harness for cleaning too!
Sending temps
So, it's warm here, sometimes it's even way to warm to climb. But like most climbing areas around the world, there is a time of year and time of day to hit certains climbs. The coolest temps are winter months between November to March, but the coldest is around January and February. The best time of the day to climb is in the evenings before dark and after a rain storm. You'll want to watch the humidity, teamed up with shade and breeze and those right there are the sending temps you'll want. I found that in the mornings, if it rained for an hour or less by the evening the humidity was the lowest. That's when most of the harder lines went down. Yes, I am a bit of a dork with weather beta but hey, you do what you have to do. And now you know. "Thanks Josh".
Climbing sectors
The southeast climbing sectors are relatively close to one another. The climbing is split up into 3 areas in my mind; 1) "Yabucoa" the biggest cluster of blocs and problems, 2) "Peidra Blanca", and 3) "The Bull Farm". There are many areas we have hiked and are marked on the map below as "Roadside blocs". These areas have an overwhelming amount of stone that we haven't touched with a brush or hands yet.
*Please do not visit the "Bull Farm" as of now (12/26/15) we are working to finalize parking and land access.
*Please do not visit the "Bull Farm" as of now (12/26/15) we are working to finalize parking and land access.
PLEASE READ THIS IF YOU PLAN ON CLIMBING IN YABUCOA
I want to point out that this isn't all the registered climbs here, in fact there are many more. I put in what we have developed the most, easiest to find and legit access. A lot of the climbing is still new to the residents of Yabucoa and we don't want to disrupt the home owners and their land by overloading them with parking and random people on their property. Please take in consideration that we are all responsible for the climbing in Yabucoa, one wrong move or action and it could be jeopardized.
I want to point out that this isn't all the registered climbs here, in fact there are many more. I put in what we have developed the most, easiest to find and legit access. A lot of the climbing is still new to the residents of Yabucoa and we don't want to disrupt the home owners and their land by overloading them with parking and random people on their property. Please take in consideration that we are all responsible for the climbing in Yabucoa, one wrong move or action and it could be jeopardized.
- Don't park in someones driveway or along the roads. I've given you beta and dropped pins as to the two main parking areas. Only use these.
- The locals homeowners don't speak english that well, so if your spanish is bad (like mine) just say "Hello" and wave. If you have a crash pad on, they will understand what you're doing.
- Don't talk loudly or hang around the car when around the houses, just image you're in your house and some wild squares are screaming and swinging machetes in your side yard.
- Other than that, just use common sense and climbing ethics. We want Yabucoa to become more than a blip on the radar.
Below you'll find the "Yabucoa" area zoomed in with names and parking areas. Each area has special feelings and scenics. All of these sectors are walkable from one another and either sit in the jungle under the canopy or out in the fields along the hills. Take a look at the interactive map (below) if you want beta on the - where and how:
Yabucoa Sector Breakdown
THE FLAG BLOCS
Flag Blocs - View from the "Cake and Crake" area. Photo - Dan Krauss
The Flag Boulders
This area is one of my favorites because of setting, view and problem quality all spread across these 3 massive blocs. For more info about each climb, refer to the topo map above.
And once again, if you need directions to the parking area from San Juan click here.
ALL PHOTOS BELOW ARE TAKEN BY THE MOST FAMOUS AND MOST AMAZING - DAN KRAUSS (Unless marked)
This area is one of my favorites because of setting, view and problem quality all spread across these 3 massive blocs. For more info about each climb, refer to the topo map above.
And once again, if you need directions to the parking area from San Juan click here.
ALL PHOTOS BELOW ARE TAKEN BY THE MOST FAMOUS AND MOST AMAZING - DAN KRAUSS (Unless marked)
The Slide Area
This area can be seen from the Flag boulders, if you look across the main section of the field you'll see all the blocs lined along the jungle's edge. We call this jungle "The underworld" and you'll see why when you adventure around in there. Here is a view from the "flag blocs" as to where the blocs sit.
To walk to the "slide area" get to the top of the Flag blocs and walk left along the ridge, its a faint trail by now but as you hike along, it drops down and leads directly to the "Black Bloc".
The next area is just between the Flag and Slide but below in the jungle. There isn't much developed down there but a few projects await. Here is a picture of "The big mama project" The locals showed me when I returned back to the island and I thought it was perfect. I've returned a few times late in the evening for night sessions, but still the upper two moves haven't gone. Next trip back, I will focus more time on the beauty!
Here is the highlight video from the trip!
So if you are heading to Puerto Rico, feel free to reach out to me or the locals over at www.ClimbingPR.com and check out all their hard work. I wouldn't have ever been to Puerto Rico or writing this blog if it wasn't for the small, generous crew of local climbers. Special thanks to Bryant Huffman and his wonderful wife Valeria and Jorge Armando Lassus for their constant cleaning and exploring. Thanks to Jean, Luis, Jordan, Hector and the other passionate climbers on the island. Keep it up boys!
CLICK ON THE PHOTO TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO AND BLOG FROM DMM
CLICK ON IMAGE TO VIEW ATHLETE PROFILE
PHOTO BY DAN KRAUSS in BISHOP, CA
Pressing the reset button can be important to use in your climbing, especially if you climb more than you do other things like - sleeping or eating... It's important on every scale in climbing, for example - during a competition it's hard to reset after you can't even start the 1st problem and you have 4 more to go. Or during an outside project that you keep falling on, you might just need is a break and do slightly easier routes to find your flow again. On a bigger scale - to take a rest, stop climbing and training and then miss it dearly.
Back in the fall of 2014, I was focusing on a few things - getting outside and training for American Bouldering Nationals. The training and outdoor experience paid off and I was really satisfied with the results. I trained and climbed since Bouldering Nationals in February until August of this year (2015) with no breaks longer than 4 days. I had a lot going on and I felt a lot of pressure to perform during the World Cups this past year with outcomes I really wanted. Possibly, to much pressure (all from myself) to preform better and reach my goals, but then I fell further away from them. By August, after the last World Cup in Munich and a hard time bouldering in Magic Wood, "I had to make a change". It wasn't train harder, or train less. It wasn't working on my weaknesses more or losing weight, it was the fact I was mentally and physically beat down. My drive to climb was low, my drive to try hard was at a 'try until its hard and fall' level and I simply wasn't having fun anymore. I needed to push the big red reset button and start fresh.
My Plan:
- To stop climbing for 3 weeks or until I miss climbing
- Start climbing again when the time is right and on ropes for 3 weeks
- Slowly get back into bouldering after ropes
- Come up with a plan
- Climb outside
- Start training in November
The last few days in Magic Wood I just stopped climbing (hard to do in a place like that) but it was really needed. From Magic Wood I drove off to Arco, Italy to spend 8 days coaching the "Youth US Team" during the 2015 Youth World Championship.
After Arco, I continued to rest for the first week of my 3 week stay with Charlotte in the South of France (Montpellier). It's a mecca of sport climbing and a perfect ingredient to my plan of getting back into it with rope climbing.
It was time to start it back up again, after 3 weeks off of plastic, rock and only chilling out. I spent 2 days in the gym, belayed by Charlotte to get my pump on. I couldn't climb more than 1.5 hours. I was pumped for 2 days after my first session, but it felt so good. I only climbed up to 12b and I was throttled. Day two I climbed up to hard 12, again, throttled for days after. I knew the good climbing feelings were going to bounce back with no warning. During my first week in France, I met a cool fellow from CA, named Alex. He was excited as much as I was to have a native english speaker in the house, so we became besties and went outside as much as possible.
My first day back outside we drove to the village of "Saint Guilhem" that sits at the beginning of a canyon where hundreds of sport routes tower. Alex and I jumped on a warm up, a long 11b, then Alex sprayed me down on a 13b/8a that I managed to flash. (Thanks for the beta brah!) Alex gave me the goods on a 13a that I was able to flash as well, my endurance is improving! I was pretty tired after giving all my engery into these climbs, I felt happy with that and pleasantly surprised. Alex talked me into trying one more 8a that was a bit more intense that I didn't have a lot of beta to. I tried to flash but fell in a low, tufa crux section. I worked the moves and will return during the next trip to this beautiful canyon in France.
After a few more gym sessions on ropes and outside sessions I was pleased to have completed a few more climbs, one of my favorites being a interesting and powerful 8a+/13c called "Le son des titans" in Joncas, France. I got on it during my last week in France and fell in the ending crux with no gas in the tank for another burn. I really enjoyed the moment on this climb so I went back the evening before I flew out to try again. I felt a lot better hiking in the last night, I knew deep down that I could do the route and deeper down that it didn't matter if I did or did not. Something that haunted me through out the World Cup season this year. The evening was cool with a subtle breeze and the crag was empty. I rehearsed the beta in my head, jumped on and proceeded into the crux. I knew I could hit the crux jump if I just tried hard for one move and there I was in the already in the rest. While I hung there shaking out, the wind blew by and all I could do is think about this route and the place I am in. I had to be smooth and smart, not get to nervous when the crux comes up. I entered the crux, nothing felt different from the easier moves below. It became a part of the route that was not stressful because I focused so much on the enjoyment and not the outcome. I really do believe that it's something we all think to much about and it distracts us from the real reason.
What was next on the rehab list? A lot of climbing on plastic bouldering actually, I have 3 weeks of setting events and a little coaching coming up then it's back to Puerto Rico!
The Summit of the Grand Tetons
Three years ago I hiked the to the Summit of the Grand Teton (13,770 feet) with my Uncle and Brother. We noticed a lot of untouched boulders along the trails and wondered if it would ever be possible to develop them. After one year of dreaming and planning, a great friend of mine Vince and I set out on a 4 days/3 night recon mission into the Garnet Canyon. We had very little expectations on what might happen and what we would actually be doing if there were no good boulders worth the hike...
Shenron V11 FA by Josh 2014
What we found was "world class" Granite in a beautiful hidden valley, 9'000ft elevation and truly a playground of boulders. We hiked, cleaned, climbed and documented 7 problems from the short trip. I couldn't stop thinking about the area and potential for months and months when we returned to Boston. I reached out to the Teton Park Rangers and got the guidelines on boulder development and access. They mentioned to me that no one is developing up in the mountains or even along the base. Old John Gill blocs are found scattered around a few lakes up and some spot climbing. They gave me the green light to start the development; meaning, just go climb so rock. Before I knew it, my return trip back to the Tetons was booked and this time for 3 weeks.
The Return trip...
Cleaning what eventual became "Silent Echo" V11 FA by Josh 2015 at Amphitheater Lake.
BOOM! It happened, I arrived in Jackson Hole and started to hike back into the mountains within hours of landing. I waited a year and I wasn't about to wait any longer. As I flew into Jackson I happened to sit on the right side of the plane, the window seat.. Without really thinking about it, it turned out to be the best landing I had ever witnessed. You fly along the Grand Teton range just about the same hight as the peaks (Screen shot from my seat below).
My landing view of the Tetons
Within a few days from landing I loaded up for 4 days in the back country. My plan was to explore 3 alpine lakes; Amphitheater, Surprise and Delta Lakes. All are fairly close to one another other than Delta which is a intense hike of 1000' elevation gain/descent in less than a quarter mile. Steep!
I went with a few friends that happen to be living/visiting in Drigs, Idaho. Emmett and Charlie; these guys were psyched to join in on the adventure, hike up, live in the back country and put up some of their own lines that inspired them. Two days of hiking around the lakes and we found a good amount of blocs. One boulder stood out to me as one of the best boulders I've found in the Tetons, so far. (Pictured below)
I went with a few friends that happen to be living/visiting in Drigs, Idaho. Emmett and Charlie; these guys were psyched to join in on the adventure, hike up, live in the back country and put up some of their own lines that inspired them. Two days of hiking around the lakes and we found a good amount of blocs. One boulder stood out to me as one of the best boulders I've found in the Tetons, so far. (Pictured below)
Silent Echo V11 FA by Josh 2015
False V6 FA by Josh 2015
After two days around the lakes we established 4 new lines. (Check the interactive map at the bottom of the page for the details)
After 2 nights around the lakes we packed up camp and hiked to Garnet Canyon (where Vince and I spent our 4 days exploring) and set up camp at the Platforms. I retraced my steps with some hand written maps and logged our climbs throughout the weeks. The handwriting is atrocious and misspelled words but at the moment I didn't care at all, chicken scratch and bad grammar is what I was going for. Here are a few photos from my.....mountain man journal.
After 2 nights around the lakes we packed up camp and hiked to Garnet Canyon (where Vince and I spent our 4 days exploring) and set up camp at the Platforms. I retraced my steps with some hand written maps and logged our climbs throughout the weeks. The handwriting is atrocious and misspelled words but at the moment I didn't care at all, chicken scratch and bad grammar is what I was going for. Here are a few photos from my.....mountain man journal.
During my 3 weeks stay many friends joined in on the adventure. It was amazing that my friends and family wanted to be part this experience and enjoy the outdoors with me. So many different perspectives and visions went into the bouldering and this makes for well rounded future area.
So happy to see friends climbing and enjoying the blocs!
By the end of the trip, I was very surprised and happy with what we had accomplished. Here's a quick tick list of details:
- I hiked just over 60 Miles, mostly up and down elevation and always looking for blocs
- We established around 33 boulder problems ranging from V1-V12
- The distance to the blocs with a crash pad and day pack range from 45min (The Cube), 1.5hr (The Medows/Garnet) and 2hr (Amphitheater Lake).
- We saw (up close) Black Bears eating huckleberries, Elk chillin' out in the fields, Bald Eagles fighting each other in the sky and even Marmots sitting on top of the boulders looking at you when you top out.
- Discovered two new sectors to develop with potential for 50+ boulder problems.
- Created a fun 8 bloc circuit in Garnet Canyon that starts at V4 and ends on V11. (The Downtown Circuit)
- I hiked just over 60 Miles, mostly up and down elevation and always looking for blocs
- We established around 33 boulder problems ranging from V1-V12
- The distance to the blocs with a crash pad and day pack range from 45min (The Cube), 1.5hr (The Medows/Garnet) and 2hr (Amphitheater Lake).
- We saw (up close) Black Bears eating huckleberries, Elk chillin' out in the fields, Bald Eagles fighting each other in the sky and even Marmots sitting on top of the boulders looking at you when you top out.
- Discovered two new sectors to develop with potential for 50+ boulder problems.
- Created a fun 8 bloc circuit in Garnet Canyon that starts at V4 and ends on V11. (The Downtown Circuit)
Petit Bidon Pété V7 FA by Dave Wetmore 2015
Camo V8 FA by Josh 2015
The beautiful "Vanilla Ice" V9 FA by Josh and Dave 2015
Interactive Guide
I found this cool web site called "Scribble Maps" that allowed me to mark each bloc and share a short description of them. Some have photos attached to give you an idea of what the lines look like. Zoom out so you can see all of the sectors! Enjoy cruising through the map of all the blocs we have established!
"SO, WHAT'S YOUR PLAN WITH UNCOVERING THE TETONS?"
I've been asked this question by many, why the Tetons? Why all the hiking, cleaning, climbing and documenting? Why don't you find boulders closer to the road?! Why don't you climb in more established areas?
All great points and questions, here's my reasons and thoughts.
I love climbing, but to me climbing doesn't have to only be rolling up to an established area with a guide book, tackle the project, do the classic circuit and then bounce. I believe that finding your "own path" is a way of life and a way to explore climbing. We all choose our own life, we take guidance from parents and friends but we ultimately choose who we become.
Choosing to do what I love and the experience during it, is how I want to live my life, in the Present.
I enjoy finding new areas and lines and creating my own path to share with the world and to leave a part of me here on planet earth. My dream before I vanish off this giant rock we live on is to write a book, but not a novel, a climbing guide book, to share.
Here is the video from LAST YEARS trip into the Tetons: https://vimeo.com/128999297
All great points and questions, here's my reasons and thoughts.
I love climbing, but to me climbing doesn't have to only be rolling up to an established area with a guide book, tackle the project, do the classic circuit and then bounce. I believe that finding your "own path" is a way of life and a way to explore climbing. We all choose our own life, we take guidance from parents and friends but we ultimately choose who we become.
Choosing to do what I love and the experience during it, is how I want to live my life, in the Present.
I enjoy finding new areas and lines and creating my own path to share with the world and to leave a part of me here on planet earth. My dream before I vanish off this giant rock we live on is to write a book, but not a novel, a climbing guide book, to share.
Here is the video from LAST YEARS trip into the Tetons: https://vimeo.com/128999297
Dear first half of 2015,
Since this year kicked off, I've been pretty damn busy, I feel like haven't really stopped. I like it. I’ve tried to calculate some fun and sad stats so that I could see how many places I've visited, hours I've traveled, comps, etc I’ve ticked off. With most of my travel focused on climbing outside and competition, I found myself traveling a lot this year for other reasons like; guest setting, guest coaching, training camps and coaching my youth team from Boston. Looking ahead at my calendar for the rest of the year (yes, it’s mostly planned out already) I’m excited to get July started!
All stats based from January 1 - June 30
States Visited: 12
Countries Visited : 4
Flights/Legs: 34
Hours spent in the air: 109
Bags lost during flights: 0
Days spent at home/away: 55/125 Comps competed in: 8
Total blocs completed at comps: 38
DESTINATIONS
1. BISHOP, CA BOULDERING (FINAL 3 DAYS FROM A 2 WEEK TRIP)
2. CONNECTICUT COACH YOUTH BOULDERING DIVISIONALS/BOULDERING
3. VERMONT DARK HORSE ROUTE SETTING
4. SALT LAKE CITY O.R. SHOW, D’iNAMIK BOULDERING COMP & PROLO COMP 5. MADDISON, WI ADULT AND YOUTH BOULDERING NATIONALS
6. VANCOUVER, CANADA IFSC SETTING AND TRAINING CAMP
7. PUERTO RICO CLIMBING & DEVELOPMENT OF BOULDERING
8. MONTREAL CANADA CANADIAN BOULDERING NATIONALS
9. FONTAINBLEAU, FRANCE BOULDERING
10. SOUTH OF FRANCE TRAINING & GIRLFRIEND TIME
11. DENVER/BOULDER, CO USA CLIMBING TRAINING CAMP
12. DALLAS, TX GUEST COACHING FOR TEAM TEXAS
13. RICHMOND, VA DOMINION RIVER ROCK COMP
14. TORONTO, CANADA 1ST BOULDERING WORLD CUP
15. BOULDER, CO. TRAINING
16. VAIL, CO 2ND BOULDERING WORLD CUP
17. RUMNEY, NH ROPE CLIMBING WITH CHARLOTTE
18. NEW YORK CITY VISA FOR CHINA & GUEST SETTING AT THE CLIFFS LIC
19. CHONGQING, CHINA 3RD BOULDERING WORLD CUP
20. HAIYANG, CHINA 4TH BOULDERING WORLD CUP
21. WEST VIRGINIA YOUTH TEAM SPORT CLIMBING IN NEW RIVER GORGE
Big thanks to my sponsors; Gramicci, Fiveten, Organic Climbing, DMM and Maxim Ropes
Since this year kicked off, I've been pretty damn busy, I feel like haven't really stopped. I like it. I’ve tried to calculate some fun and sad stats so that I could see how many places I've visited, hours I've traveled, comps, etc I’ve ticked off. With most of my travel focused on climbing outside and competition, I found myself traveling a lot this year for other reasons like; guest setting, guest coaching, training camps and coaching my youth team from Boston. Looking ahead at my calendar for the rest of the year (yes, it’s mostly planned out already) I’m excited to get July started!
All stats based from January 1 - June 30
States Visited: 12
Countries Visited : 4
Flights/Legs: 34
Hours spent in the air: 109
Bags lost during flights: 0
Days spent at home/away: 55/125 Comps competed in: 8
Total blocs completed at comps: 38
DESTINATIONS
1. BISHOP, CA BOULDERING (FINAL 3 DAYS FROM A 2 WEEK TRIP)
2. CONNECTICUT COACH YOUTH BOULDERING DIVISIONALS/BOULDERING
3. VERMONT DARK HORSE ROUTE SETTING
4. SALT LAKE CITY O.R. SHOW, D’iNAMIK BOULDERING COMP & PROLO COMP 5. MADDISON, WI ADULT AND YOUTH BOULDERING NATIONALS
6. VANCOUVER, CANADA IFSC SETTING AND TRAINING CAMP
7. PUERTO RICO CLIMBING & DEVELOPMENT OF BOULDERING
8. MONTREAL CANADA CANADIAN BOULDERING NATIONALS
9. FONTAINBLEAU, FRANCE BOULDERING
10. SOUTH OF FRANCE TRAINING & GIRLFRIEND TIME
11. DENVER/BOULDER, CO USA CLIMBING TRAINING CAMP
12. DALLAS, TX GUEST COACHING FOR TEAM TEXAS
13. RICHMOND, VA DOMINION RIVER ROCK COMP
14. TORONTO, CANADA 1ST BOULDERING WORLD CUP
15. BOULDER, CO. TRAINING
16. VAIL, CO 2ND BOULDERING WORLD CUP
17. RUMNEY, NH ROPE CLIMBING WITH CHARLOTTE
18. NEW YORK CITY VISA FOR CHINA & GUEST SETTING AT THE CLIFFS LIC
19. CHONGQING, CHINA 3RD BOULDERING WORLD CUP
20. HAIYANG, CHINA 4TH BOULDERING WORLD CUP
21. WEST VIRGINIA YOUTH TEAM SPORT CLIMBING IN NEW RIVER GORGE
Big thanks to my sponsors; Gramicci, Fiveten, Organic Climbing, DMM and Maxim Ropes
Haying, China 2015 Bouldering World Cup.
Bryant Huffman on "Moncho" V8 in Kilometer 53
Bryant and Myself scan the jungle while standing on the Iguana boulder.
I recently visited the island of Puerto Rico with my brother Zach for two weeks in March 2015. This wasn't a spur of the moment trip to get tan and climb rocks, I have been trying to plan a trip to visit the local climbers for two years now. I wanted to check out what this Caribbean Island offered that is so close to where I live (4 hour direct flight on Jetblue without a passport to be exact). Checking out the articles “Rock & Ice” and “DPM” have put together from previous climbers/journalists, I kept getting more psyched to get down there and climb, but to do what I love the most, explore and find more.
Bryant Huffman is a name and face that any local climber and musician in Puerto Rico should know. This dude, is the dude. Bryant is one of fearless leaders, developers and climbers that work hard to grow climbing and make it accessible to any level climber. The island climbing crew is a very inspiring, motivated crew to explore, climb and chill with. From the beginner without climbing gear to the experienced bouldering and sport climbers, Puerto Rico offers it all because of these manly island men.
Bryant Huffman is a name and face that any local climber and musician in Puerto Rico should know. This dude, is the dude. Bryant is one of fearless leaders, developers and climbers that work hard to grow climbing and make it accessible to any level climber. The island climbing crew is a very inspiring, motivated crew to explore, climb and chill with. From the beginner without climbing gear to the experienced bouldering and sport climbers, Puerto Rico offers it all because of these manly island men.
Zach Larson and Bryant holding some coconuts...
The Mission
I wont take you day-by-day though the trip, but I do have to start with one story….
Bryant picked up my brother Zach and I at the airport around 9pm the day we arrived. We hopped in his (old and maybe sketchy looking) van and sped off to get some food and chill. While driving along the highway (Zach sitting on a milk crate between the two of us) Bryant was telling us about his main car that just broke down and why we are in the free candy van. Going about 55 mph and we heard a loud noise that sounded like we hit a pot hole… but we were leaning to the left and the noise still continued. I look up to see our tire rolling past us as we grind along the highway on 3 wheels. Hollywood stunt driver Bryant somehow pulled over enough and we stopped; we all looked and decided it was time to laugh and try to get a handle on what just happened.
"Welcome to Puerto Rico boys"!
- To see and climb what the locals are most proud and psyched about.
- Check out some projects that are still undone.
- Find new boulders and opens new lines (with machetes).
I wont take you day-by-day though the trip, but I do have to start with one story….
Bryant picked up my brother Zach and I at the airport around 9pm the day we arrived. We hopped in his (old and maybe sketchy looking) van and sped off to get some food and chill. While driving along the highway (Zach sitting on a milk crate between the two of us) Bryant was telling us about his main car that just broke down and why we are in the free candy van. Going about 55 mph and we heard a loud noise that sounded like we hit a pot hole… but we were leaning to the left and the noise still continued. I look up to see our tire rolling past us as we grind along the highway on 3 wheels. Hollywood stunt driver Bryant somehow pulled over enough and we stopped; we all looked and decided it was time to laugh and try to get a handle on what just happened.
"Welcome to Puerto Rico boys"!
Changing the van tire with our really short jack. We added some stones and bricks to make it work!
Limestone Bouldering
For the first few days we climbed in a area 20 min South East from San Juan called “Bayamon”. This area has it all; single pitch sport climbing, tech blocs and some roof blocs with massive stalactites through out some of the caves. We climbed some established lines and then added 3 new lines to the area.
For the first few days we climbed in a area 20 min South East from San Juan called “Bayamon”. This area has it all; single pitch sport climbing, tech blocs and some roof blocs with massive stalactites through out some of the caves. We climbed some established lines and then added 3 new lines to the area.
Zach sending "The Uttermilker" V8 FA by Chris Weidner
Sticking the crux move from the low start "Nucleus Mutation" V9/10 in Bayamon.
Bryant sending the "Destetillao" V7 FA by Bryant. A sharp crimp in his right hands guards the huge finishing move!
Granite Bouldering
The boulder field in Yabucoa... Yabucoa
The beach town of Yabucoa is in the southeast corner of the island. When you drive into Yabucoa there are green hills towering over the white beaches. Up in the hills you’ll see the massive granite blocs that need love and want your skin. On the sides of the open green boulder fields is the deep jungle. We call one of the areas “the underworld” because under the jungle canopy are boulders, and under the boulders are more and more boulders. It’s a scary hike at first, no trails, with vines and thorns everywhere and under you; are deep caves and future problems. It’s scary but super fun to know that you could be walking on top of the next line. You might think it would be dark under the canopy but the light shines in and shows off the granite towers and caves. Bryant and Jean showed us a few lines they developed and also a few projects. Here are some of the gems:
The beach town of Yabucoa is in the southeast corner of the island. When you drive into Yabucoa there are green hills towering over the white beaches. Up in the hills you’ll see the massive granite blocs that need love and want your skin. On the sides of the open green boulder fields is the deep jungle. We call one of the areas “the underworld” because under the jungle canopy are boulders, and under the boulders are more and more boulders. It’s a scary hike at first, no trails, with vines and thorns everywhere and under you; are deep caves and future problems. It’s scary but super fun to know that you could be walking on top of the next line. You might think it would be dark under the canopy but the light shines in and shows off the granite towers and caves. Bryant and Jean showed us a few lines they developed and also a few projects. Here are some of the gems:
The Chewawa bloc
It was sitting along a steep dirt road covered by 5’ of tall grass and thorns. We thought we saw a line through the grass and started to cut into it. We found a few potential lines but didn’t know it was going to become my favorite problem so far in Yabucoa. It’s on beautiful textured granite with a V8/9 stand start and a hard 3 move SDS addition to make it V10/11
It was sitting along a steep dirt road covered by 5’ of tall grass and thorns. We thought we saw a line through the grass and started to cut into it. We found a few potential lines but didn’t know it was going to become my favorite problem so far in Yabucoa. It’s on beautiful textured granite with a V8/9 stand start and a hard 3 move SDS addition to make it V10/11
Sending the majestic power problem called "Vuelo del Guaraguao" (Sit Start) V10/11. One of my Favorite on the island!
The Iguana bloc
Is another giant bloc we found during out stay. It holds 6 quality granite problems with some interesting sequences. Some sequences have very bad to no feet like the one below called “Yoga Skank-asorus” (V9) , a low sit start to Jean’s 5 star “Yogo Skank” (V5).
Is another giant bloc we found during out stay. It holds 6 quality granite problems with some interesting sequences. Some sequences have very bad to no feet like the one below called “Yoga Skank-asorus” (V9) , a low sit start to Jean’s 5 star “Yogo Skank” (V5).
Jean sending his super cool and hip crusher "Yoga Skank" V5
Mid campus on "Yoga Skank-a-sourus". V9 FA by Josh Larson
To the left of "Yoga Skank" (Same starting hold/ledge) is the hardest line on the bloc called "Moon walk" V10/11 FA by Josh Larson. It was at first a easy looking line, then we cleaned the wall and found a lack of feet (again) and a crack that did not offer any grippers! So I worked out all the possible sequences and finally found the beta. A tall person might have an easier time with the move after the right hand cross (pictured below) but still hard to get into the cross position. I love this boulder problem. When I return, i'll probably have to climb this one again!
 Placing the cruxy heel hook on "Moon walk" V11 |  The amazing "cross to fat pinch" move on "Moon walk" |
The Slide Bloc
This boulder is massive and can be seen from the main road in Yabucoa. In the picture below it is in the field on the top left. Bryant and Jean showed us a tall line that nearly went to the top of this 30' bloc. With it being so tall, I decided I better rap down and clean and chalk the line. A very tall, technical line presented itself with a easy yet scary top out. Called "The Slide" V7 (FA by Josh Larson). Directly to the right of the slide is still a project that was almost sent by my bro Zach and sits around the grade of V6/7. They both share the same, slaby finish.
This boulder is massive and can be seen from the main road in Yabucoa. In the picture below it is in the field on the top left. Bryant and Jean showed us a tall line that nearly went to the top of this 30' bloc. With it being so tall, I decided I better rap down and clean and chalk the line. A very tall, technical line presented itself with a easy yet scary top out. Called "The Slide" V7 (FA by Josh Larson). Directly to the right of the slide is still a project that was almost sent by my bro Zach and sits around the grade of V6/7. They both share the same, slaby finish.
I wanted to remind you of the boulder field...
Bryant working out the moves on a project on The Slide Bloc.
One of my favorite views while cleaning a boulder...Yes, it's so good!
Kilometer 53
This was another sector in the south of the island that the local crew took us to. The blocs are along a hill side....from hell. Steep, sunny and covered in unfriendly bushes. Like Bryant said in our Puerto Rico teaser "Ya gotta really want tah boulder to pass trew-dis sh*t". There is a project at the top of the hill that has a really hard, weird dyno off a sloppy edge to a flat edge. At first it didn't look hard, then after a few hours of not sticking the dyno, we left. It's hard, awkward hard but in a good way. The hill side offered many other blocs, some Bryant, Jean and the crew have already established lines on. I was able to add a low start to a compression rig call "Moncho" V8 and it added a grade or two and it's called "Super Moncho" V9/10.
Climbing the compression line "Super Moncho" V10 FA by Josh Larson
Projects for the return...
With a big, HUGE THANKS to the locals in Puerto Rico for hosting us, touring us around and getting me motivated to grow out my hair, be chill and move to Puerto Rico. Thank you Bryant, Valeria and Jean!
Video series of the trip will be releasing shortly. For now check out the PR teaser over here!
Video series of the trip will be releasing shortly. For now check out the PR teaser over here!
Some more photos you can scan through
I started climbing again when I was 24 back in Worcester, MA. I went to my first ABS National event with my dad in Boulder, CO. I got rocked so hard, I never made it half way up any boulders! I think I may have been last. But watching the final round in a small venue with a loud crowd and Chris Sharma and Paul Robinson battling out for the win, I was motivated to one day improve and become a better climber and competitor (i.e. get to the top of a qualifier boulder).
2010 ABS Qualifiers For the last 4 years I have competed at every ABS Nationals and each with some surprises.
2011 I went to Virginia and managed to top only one qualifier problem but shockingly that was not enough (ha) to make semifinals.
2011 I went to Virginia and managed to top only one qualifier problem but shockingly that was not enough (ha) to make semifinals.
2012 I was able to make the cut to semis with a final placement of 18th.
Something is working here.
Something is working here.
2012 ABS Semi-finals
Then I didn't make semifinals in 2013, I missed it by 1 spot, 1 point.
So I went back in 2014 and placed, 13th. Okay, I'll go to some World Cups, travel, compete a lot and learn as much as possible and return next year make it count.
2014 ABS Semi-finals
Then I turned 29, NBD.
The 2015 ABS Nationals hit Maddison, WI and this time I prepared as much as I could without over doing it. Prepared in different ways than previous years like climbing outside more leading up to the comps. I went to Bishop and had a great time climbing some of my hardest blocs to date. I was playing with some different training tactics and nutrition. During Nationals, I also played with my head a lot. I gave my brain some sort of reset and all problems became a possibility. Thinking for so long that I was going to get better, wasn't working. One day I had to say "I'm better. I'm ready. This is possible." Sometimes we are always in the "getting better stage" or "I'll have another chance if I don't do it" or "there's always the next comp". Are we always training and learning? Most of the time we should be, but there is a time where you have to cut those thoughts out and drop the hammer. You have to focus on what you have to get done, right then and there. That's what I thought when I went to Maddison this year. All I thought about in each round was just staying focused on my beta, breathing and trying hard. Not about making finals or winning or thinking about making the US team, just each moment. Each move. Sounds simple, but I think we are wired to think about the bigger outcome (positive or negative) of what will happen if you're successful or if you fail. I had to reset my brain, rewire it.
The 2015 ABS Nationals hit Maddison, WI and this time I prepared as much as I could without over doing it. Prepared in different ways than previous years like climbing outside more leading up to the comps. I went to Bishop and had a great time climbing some of my hardest blocs to date. I was playing with some different training tactics and nutrition. During Nationals, I also played with my head a lot. I gave my brain some sort of reset and all problems became a possibility. Thinking for so long that I was going to get better, wasn't working. One day I had to say "I'm better. I'm ready. This is possible." Sometimes we are always in the "getting better stage" or "I'll have another chance if I don't do it" or "there's always the next comp". Are we always training and learning? Most of the time we should be, but there is a time where you have to cut those thoughts out and drop the hammer. You have to focus on what you have to get done, right then and there. That's what I thought when I went to Maddison this year. All I thought about in each round was just staying focused on my beta, breathing and trying hard. Not about making finals or winning or thinking about making the US team, just each moment. Each move. Sounds simple, but I think we are wired to think about the bigger outcome (positive or negative) of what will happen if you're successful or if you fail. I had to reset my brain, rewire it.
The fall off of Final #4
Qualifiers
I was the second to last climber to come out of 62 climbers. Ian Dory was climbing last right behind me. Ian and I warmed up and hit the wall together. 4 of 5 blocs Ian I both flashed and it was this crazy motivation we each kept giving each other. A chain reaction of me pushing him, then him pushing me. Really memorable round for sure. The last boulder neither of us did but Ian almost finished and placed 5th and I landed in 6th heading into semi-finals.
I was the second to last climber to come out of 62 climbers. Ian Dory was climbing last right behind me. Ian and I warmed up and hit the wall together. 4 of 5 blocs Ian I both flashed and it was this crazy motivation we each kept giving each other. A chain reaction of me pushing him, then him pushing me. Really memorable round for sure. The last boulder neither of us did but Ian almost finished and placed 5th and I landed in 6th heading into semi-finals.
Rob on the left and myself on the right topping out our blocs in semis.
Semifinals
This is the hardest round if you ask any competitor. 20 Strong climbers down to 6 to make the cut for finals. Everyone is willing to push their hardest to make the cut. Everyone is ready. What do I have to do to make top 6? I need to focus on each move and not about making the cut. Period.
A reminder for me is my 3 comp "F's" (sometimes 4 but we won't mention that one) are; Flash or Fail, I need to Forget and move to the next boulder.
Bloc 1: was a cool double dyne to a techy finish on slopers and crimps. I missed the jump once then took it to the finish on my next go
Bloc 2: was filled with big orange slopers and pinches, with a big jump mid way. I flashed it and sat back down to kill the pump and prepare for the next battle.
Bloc 3: was a bunch of slopers to a hard finish that I reached 3 times but failed to do the remaining 3 moves. A little pumped I sat down and rested for the final bloc, the slab.
Bloc 4: was a wild looking slab with not many holds. The volumes were stacked on top of one another and they were far apart. Interesting and fun, I did not top but I made it pretty far after completing the no hands jump that seemed way to far at the time before take off.
Waiting for results and....I made the cut and placed 6th. This finals they took 7 because Muhammad made finals and he is not a US citizen.
This is the hardest round if you ask any competitor. 20 Strong climbers down to 6 to make the cut for finals. Everyone is willing to push their hardest to make the cut. Everyone is ready. What do I have to do to make top 6? I need to focus on each move and not about making the cut. Period.
A reminder for me is my 3 comp "F's" (sometimes 4 but we won't mention that one) are; Flash or Fail, I need to Forget and move to the next boulder.
Bloc 1: was a cool double dyne to a techy finish on slopers and crimps. I missed the jump once then took it to the finish on my next go
Bloc 2: was filled with big orange slopers and pinches, with a big jump mid way. I flashed it and sat back down to kill the pump and prepare for the next battle.
Bloc 3: was a bunch of slopers to a hard finish that I reached 3 times but failed to do the remaining 3 moves. A little pumped I sat down and rested for the final bloc, the slab.
Bloc 4: was a wild looking slab with not many holds. The volumes were stacked on top of one another and they were far apart. Interesting and fun, I did not top but I made it pretty far after completing the no hands jump that seemed way to far at the time before take off.
Waiting for results and....I made the cut and placed 6th. This finals they took 7 because Muhammad made finals and he is not a US citizen.
A wide view of the venue and Finals blocs!
Preview time for ABS Finals
So it was my first ABS Finals and holy damn it felt great to make the cut. "Okay, now forget about that and think about whats next, winning".
If you're in finals you have a chance to take the gold, no matter who you are.
If you're in finals you have a chance to take the gold, no matter who you are.
BLOC 1
Bloc 1: Slab-tastic on the far right side of the wall. Easy to read start to a weird and unplanned finish. It's one of those boulder where you try your best to plan it out, but you still haven't sold your self on the beta, yet. First go I got pretty high up and foot slid off the volume. Next go my hand slid off the start hold, 3rd go I was able to get out of that position I fell in and finish off the slab with a jump to the finishing volume. 6 of 7 competitors finished this bloc.
BLOC 2
Bloc 2: was a wild and really fun swinging sideways campus start to some slopers. I had a hard time with the beginning but as soon as I hit the campus move, I hustled to the last move where I was so pumped I really had to buckle down and think I wasn't pumped. I threw for the end pumped out of my mind and slid off the finishing hold. Damn. That was super fun! Woods, O'rourke and Colman only ones to finish. Strong effort by those boys!
BLOC 3
Bloc 3: Foot hold, mono crimps on a vertical wall. Yea, not my favorite boulder but it needed to be done. I had to try some whacky beta by stemming into the left far corner and use it to gain a hold that no one was able to control other than Mohammad who was the only guy to top this boulder.
BLOC 4
Bloc 4: This was my chance to get 2 tops. I needed it to win. If I did this bloc and Woods, O'rourke and Mohammad didn't, I'd take gold. I sat in my chair waiting for the countdown and the only thing I told my self was "Do this boulder, one move at a time". The boulder consisted of 2 hand jams to start, big wide compression with the tricky foot work to get out of and a heinous top with really slopy pinches to a side pull finishing hold. My first attempt I taught myself how to crack climb, i'd never really slammed a fist into a crack before that moment. I slipped out. Next go I got through the hand jams and before I knew it I was trying hard in the headwall section. I chalked quickly knowing the hold before the finish was bad, set up for the last static move and grabbed the middle of the finishing hold, the crowed screaming and pushing me, the part of the hold was not good enough to match, I needed to bump up and when I went to bump to the good part my foot that I did not adjust for the bump, popped out and I plummeted to the pads. That was it, that was my chance to take it. But I had one more go in me, I rested, chalked and tried my best to un pump my cement truck forearms and headed up again. This time falling a little before where I fell last, I was done. I'm super happy to be ranked U.S. 3rd place and be on the official U.S. Team.
What's next?
I've been laying low for the last 3 weeks. Climbing around with no training or nutrition plan. Eating healthy but not training diet yet. I'll be heading to all 5 Bouldering WC this year. 2 in China, 2 in North America and 1 in Europe. Looks like i'll be ticking off another continent this year! I'll post about my World Cup training plan in the coming weeks, until then, I'm off to Puerto Rico to find and climb boulders and DWS. YES!
Photo: Dan Krauss
Photo: Three Peak Films
| This was my first Winter OR show and second OR show ever. These events are mostly retailers and buyers getting there swanky business on. Athletes and ambassadors from all over the country are also there cruising around represent their companies. Some are here because they are forced, some are here because they want to improve their presences in the industry. I went for a few reasons; Gramicci covered the cost for me to come out hang out and rep the brand. Our booth at the show was sleek and sexy. We had a cool couch/lounge area with some of my climbing films playing. I was also really psyched to compete at the local "Di'namik comp" at the Front Climbing gym and the ProLo Comp (Pros with Locals) at the new Movement in Lehi, UT. Each day for me started with Uber rides, OR Show snapchats, free coffee and food, climbing in radical comps and eating burgers with skinny white kids (includes me). |
Meagan Martin and I walking to the show prob sining some Veggie Tales...
I'll b returning to the Summer OR show for Gramicci in August and then the Pisco Comp in Park City. For now, I am heading home to train some last minuet weaknesses before ABS Nationals in 2 weeks and set the 4th and final Dark Horse this season! Boom! Busy weeks, but I wouldn't want them any other way.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Mexico City, Mexico
Through November, 25th to December, 1st
I was fortunate enough to be selected to join the U.S coaching team at the 2014 Youth Pan American Championship.
The coaching team was diverse and put together by US Head Coach Claudio from Atlanta, along with Kyle from Texas, Megan from New York, Tyson from Washington and my self from Boston. It was a five day event for the athletes, including all disciplines; Sport, Speed and Boulder. This was my first time in Mexico and my first time coaching with the US Team. I have to say that the learning curve for my coaching spiked while working alone side with some of the countries best coaches and youth athletes. Everyone has their own style and with variety, our team kids had everything they needed to prep and focus for this event.
The chief setter for the bouldering event was set by my boy Dave Wetmore. He and his tiny crew of three Mexicans, set three rounds of boulder for each category. They killed it! The chief setter for Lead was also set by an American Luke and his small crew. Four kids from the Metro Rock team received invites to this event. They qualified at Nationals for bouldering, lead and speed back in July and in March. Bimini placed 2nd in female B lead with an amazing display of never giving up throughout a hard finals route. Lily placed 2nd in female A bouldering staying in second place to Margo Hayes throughout the 3 rounds of competition. Adriana placed 12th in female A bouldering, she just came off a month long injury but pushed and tried hard. Proud. Zoe placed 5th in female Jr. bouldering also coming off an injury but moving up in each round with determination yo. They were all one of the biggest reasons I signed up to be a coach at this event. These kids push me, inspire me and make me feel like one lucky coach, psyched I can be there for them.
Here are some numbers to get a detailed idea of how some things went down.
70 US Climbing Athletes in total attend the event 16 First Place finishes
16 Second Place finishes
13 Third Place finishes
45 Total medals of 72
4 Amazing US Coaches to hang, learn and coach with.
1 Busy Team Manager that killed it
5 Days of competition
So many supportive parents and families
4 Speed routes set by the US coaches.
30 Hours each coach spent in Isolation for Tyson, Megan and myself. (A total of 90 hours!) 3 Locations visited by the coaches, Hotel, Comp Venue and the mall
1 Thanksgiving meal missed but replaced by eating tacos with amazing people!
200 PB & Jelly sandys eaten by ISO coaches
I hope that the next youth event like this, I will be able to coach and help the kids achieve their goals and focus on what matters to each one of them.
Follow this link to check out my blog about bouldering and sport climbing in Greece and Eastern Europe back in September 2014!
THE UGH | V11 This went better than people would expect for your "first rodeo".
I didn't think I was ever going to pick up my crash pad, jump on a plane and climb in Hueco for 2 days, ever. But the rodeo was to much of a tease and with the help of Gramicci, I was there and back in a flash!
Traveling to a fairly new area to preform at your highest level, in less than 8 hours, is stressful! So many different changes to adapt to in a short about of time like; altitude, new rock (not plastic) heat, traveling, pressure and never climbing on these boulders before. I'm not complaining at all here, just a wild, 'must live again' experience!
The day of the event was hectic but very entertaining. We had a little crew and blasted around from boulder to boulder, falling or flashing. Here is a video to better explain the trip and what the vibe was like.
Cheers!
I didn't think I was ever going to pick up my crash pad, jump on a plane and climb in Hueco for 2 days, ever. But the rodeo was to much of a tease and with the help of Gramicci, I was there and back in a flash!
Traveling to a fairly new area to preform at your highest level, in less than 8 hours, is stressful! So many different changes to adapt to in a short about of time like; altitude, new rock (not plastic) heat, traveling, pressure and never climbing on these boulders before. I'm not complaining at all here, just a wild, 'must live again' experience!
The day of the event was hectic but very entertaining. We had a little crew and blasted around from boulder to boulder, falling or flashing. Here is a video to better explain the trip and what the vibe was like.
Cheers!
Where did the time go!? I feel like I was just in Squamish climbing beautiful granite boulders last week! But last week I was in Hueco Tanks bouldering my face off, but time flies when you climb everyday! The trip isn't over yet, we are in the Red River Gorge....sport climbing. We are a few days away from this dream trip coming to an end and living it as much as we did on day 1. Our stops - Rumney, Gunks, S.Dakota, Squamish, Yosemite, Bishop, Red Rocks, Joe's Valley, (A quick trip to Boston to set the Dark Horse) Colorado, Hueco Tanks and Red River Gorge. The pile of guide books has grown and the tick list of boulders and routes are impressive to say the least!
Even though the trip is about done, we plan the next adventure for 2014! It may be a little crazy sounding but we are going for a "exotic" place this time!
Mount Evans Colorado In the mean time it's back to Boston to coach the Metro Rock Climbing Team and train for plastic climbing. I'm looking forward to the winter months, I think video games are on the horizon as well as getting a new car and place to live. Life is short, live it well.
NIGHT NIGHT
NIGHT NIGHT
Well here it is, the first stop and video of 10 -Rumney, NH! A place where I started climbing and fell in love with the outdoors. This is a trip of a lifetime and I hope every year I get the chance to say that again. With Vince Schaefer on my side and the powers combined, this isn't our only big trip we have our eyes on! This series is in partnership with LT11 and Epic TV and we are hitting 10 climbing locations around North America in search of bouldering, sport climbing, humor and without a doubt - epics!
Our trip to Rumney was an amazing start and perfect temps (July temps) It started out with a bang! I finished off a climb that was a huge mental battle for me in the past, "Parallel Universe" (8b+). Focusing on the wrong things forced me off the finishing hold more than anything in the past and now I am much more aware of what to focus on. Climbing is so damn MENTAL! When we arrived in Rumney, I figured this would be a great time to get back on it after more than a year off of this rig. When we arrived at the cliff (Monsters) all of the draws were gone...hmmm. The RCA was doing a cleaning and re hanging of draws at a few areas around Rumney. So I lowered in, hung the draws, brushed the holds and tried to remember beta. 1st go was relearning the moves and they came fairly quick, 2nd go my foot popped after the lower crux, 3rd go cleared my head, focused on enjoying the movement and memories and put her to sleep! What a great start to the trip and even more a mental struggle gone! Charlottle Durif is joining us on this adventure and she flashed Predator (13b) with some style points! And to top off the week even more we discovered an unclimbed deep (shallow) water solo down the street from Rumney. A beautiful tube shaped rock with thin horizontal seams, and about 20' in height with a low percentage move going over the lip! We called it "The Baptist" and the grade...who knows. I called it 7c+ but time will tell. So, it's off to the Gunks, Needles and Spearfish Canyon for our next video!
More stories and epics coming soon (I promise).
Check out the video of our first stop of ten!
Enjoy!
Video
Click on the picture to see our 1st video of 10!
This is a schedule of our 2013 climbing trip across North America! Watch and follow along by clicking on the "lost" logo to the left! What could be next?
8.3 - 8.10 Rumney, NH
8.11 - 8.16 Gunks, NY
8.18 - 8.22 Needles, SD
8.24 - 9.1 Squamish, BC
9.3 - 9.12 Yosemite, CA
9.13 - 9.22 Bishop, CA
9.23 - 10.2 Red Rocks, NV
10.3 - 10.7 Moab, UT
10.12 - 10.22 Boulder, CO
10. 23 - 11.1 Hueco tanks, TX
11.3 - 11.10 Red River Gorge, KY
8.3 - 8.10 Rumney, NH
8.11 - 8.16 Gunks, NY
8.18 - 8.22 Needles, SD
8.24 - 9.1 Squamish, BC
9.3 - 9.12 Yosemite, CA
9.13 - 9.22 Bishop, CA
9.23 - 10.2 Red Rocks, NV
10.3 - 10.7 Moab, UT
10.12 - 10.22 Boulder, CO
10. 23 - 11.1 Hueco tanks, TX
11.3 - 11.10 Red River Gorge, KY
Sponsors
Filmed and edited by
Back in May I received an offer only someone who hates climbing, traveling and friends would not accept. I got a text message from my homies at "Louder Than 11" saying they have a project they would like to talk about to me and my great friend and bad ass photographer- Vince Scheafer. Before we picked up the phone, Vince said to me "what do you think they have for us?". I didn't have a clue, but maybe they wanted us to film a local climbing comp or do an Ivan Green reenactment?
The phone call began...
LT11: "What's up homie bro dawgs?! We have some news that you might like. We got a email from "Epic TV" (a European TV company) about filming and climbing at 10 of the best climbing destinations across North America."
Us: Oh.....wow! (In a calm voice but very excited with what will be said next...)
LT11: They want to pay for 2 guys to do a lifestyle focused road trip to 10 areas and spend 10 days at each one, consecutively. 100 days on the road, climbing, chillin' and you will be editing the videos to release after each area. A 10 video series, fully paid for.
Us: ........(jaws drop and I slap Vince directly in the face)........
LT11: Hello?
Us: So...you want us, to do this?
LT11: Ah, yea!
Us: Holy damn! (Vince slaps me in the face) We can't even think straight right now guys, we want to do this for sure, it is a once in a life time trip and we want it.
LT11: The trip has to be done by the end of November and you pick the dates and places. We will follow up with details later in the week, we are psyched!
Us: We are at a loss for words, thank you. Lets talk soon! Peace!
60 days after that phone call Vince and I have already purchased a 28' RV fully paid for by "Rockwerx", assembled a plan, locations, dates and a team. Our 10 locations in order are - Rumney, Gunk's, Squamish, Yosemite, Bishop, Red Rock Canyon, Moab, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hueco Tanks and The Red River Gorge!!!
I have been to half of these areas and I can not wait another day to get on the road! We leave July 30th to get "Lost in North America"! 4 years ago my life couldn't have been more of the opposite. Now I stand here 100% happy with my life, the people that I surround myself with and the opportunities that come my way. For the last year I focused on climbing competitions and while some went very well, some didn't.
Feeling like I might need to switch it up for a few months after the last ABS Nationals, I thought I should do more outside climbing. Well, here is that chance right now, 100 days of climbing outside. When I return, I feel I will be fully recharged for comp season, training and work.
Look for us online at www.epictv.com or at your local climbing spot and help share this incredible trip to others and don't settle for anything less than living your dream.
"Stay classy San Diego"
Josh Larson
The phone call began...
LT11: "What's up homie bro dawgs?! We have some news that you might like. We got a email from "Epic TV" (a European TV company) about filming and climbing at 10 of the best climbing destinations across North America."
Us: Oh.....wow! (In a calm voice but very excited with what will be said next...)
LT11: They want to pay for 2 guys to do a lifestyle focused road trip to 10 areas and spend 10 days at each one, consecutively. 100 days on the road, climbing, chillin' and you will be editing the videos to release after each area. A 10 video series, fully paid for.
Us: ........(jaws drop and I slap Vince directly in the face)........
LT11: Hello?
Us: So...you want us, to do this?
LT11: Ah, yea!
Us: Holy damn! (Vince slaps me in the face) We can't even think straight right now guys, we want to do this for sure, it is a once in a life time trip and we want it.
LT11: The trip has to be done by the end of November and you pick the dates and places. We will follow up with details later in the week, we are psyched!
Us: We are at a loss for words, thank you. Lets talk soon! Peace!
60 days after that phone call Vince and I have already purchased a 28' RV fully paid for by "Rockwerx", assembled a plan, locations, dates and a team. Our 10 locations in order are - Rumney, Gunk's, Squamish, Yosemite, Bishop, Red Rock Canyon, Moab, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hueco Tanks and The Red River Gorge!!!
I have been to half of these areas and I can not wait another day to get on the road! We leave July 30th to get "Lost in North America"! 4 years ago my life couldn't have been more of the opposite. Now I stand here 100% happy with my life, the people that I surround myself with and the opportunities that come my way. For the last year I focused on climbing competitions and while some went very well, some didn't.
Feeling like I might need to switch it up for a few months after the last ABS Nationals, I thought I should do more outside climbing. Well, here is that chance right now, 100 days of climbing outside. When I return, I feel I will be fully recharged for comp season, training and work.
Look for us online at www.epictv.com or at your local climbing spot and help share this incredible trip to others and don't settle for anything less than living your dream.
"Stay classy San Diego"
Josh Larson